The March Of Candelieri Sassari
14th August 2026
So, quick introduction. My name is Richard and I met Constantino (Costa) at an event he was photographing. We talked, mostly about photography, and a couple of years later here I am attending the March Of Candelieri. With Costa as my guide.
Having seen a few photographs from previous years and taken onboard as much advise as I could from people who knew the event, I thought I’d be prepared. Keep your lens hood on, it will save your lens. Try not to lose sight of me. Constantino. Don’t try drinking like the locals, you’ll be asleep by mid day. The Misses.
We set off on a short walk from the Monte Rosello district around 9.30am towards the old part of town, Centro Storica, the streets getting more narrow the closer we got. You cant help but notice the change in architecture. From 1950’s, 60’s and 70’s to 1400s in a couple of hundred yards. Both lived in as much today as ever. Once inside Centro Storica the streets become ancient. Everywhere, buildings that have been there for centuries, seeing generations come and go. Everything looks like it could tell you a story. I cant help imagining how many people down the centuries have walked through these tiny streets and how much celebration, gossip and, maybe even scandal they’ve seen. The sun is already hot already and we head for Piazza Santa Apollinare. This is where I witness for the first time the dressing of the Candle. The light is great in the piazza. Beautiful crisp shadows against the countless shades of yellow, orange, and pink buildings with terracotta tiles. The greys and blues in the ancient stone floors, polished by foot traffic for centuries. This place seems unchanged for centuries.
1Just like the tradition of dressing these candles. For centuries the people of Sassari have dressed these candles just the way are doing now. The dedication and attention to detail is unwavering. Im running round taking photos and no-one is taking a blind bit of notice of me. All their focus is on the Candle. The flags. The ribbons. The flowers. The colours are amazing in the sunlight. Everywhere I look theres an opportunity for a photograph. The textures in the stonework, the architecture and even the paint on the buildings. Incredible. And of course, the people. Getting shots of people lost in their work, passion, or even a simple discussion is an absolute treat for a photographer, and this is, pretty much, the best its been for me.
People are starting to arrive in the piazza now to see for themselves how the main event is being prepared. Live music is playing, the drummer who keeps the timing for the march is drumming and the grills are sending smoke through the air, along with the smell of food. Amongst all that is the buzz of people in conversation as they watch the preparations. Pointing and gesturing, and chatting with so much enthusiasm, as only Sardinians and Italians do. Again, the photo opportunities are endless. Facial expressions. Hands. Posture. Everything you need to tell a story.
Moving on we squeezed through the crowd that has populated the piazza in what seems like minutes and head for Piazza Duomo San Nicole. Here we saw a second candle and its bearers and ontourage rehearsing their routine with the candle held high. Il Conduttore and the drummer providing timing and direction. These guys, the bearers, are dancing around with a wooden candle that weighs between 200 and 400 kg. It’s also 4 metres tall. Then when the time comes they’ve got to get it to the top of the hill and then walk the 3km from Piazza Castello to The Church of Santa Maria di Betlem, stopping briefly at the old town hall to say ciao to the mayor and a few other VIPs. All in temperatures of 34 degrees and upwards. Amazing. And a little crazy at the same time. These guys are giving the public a go too. Everyone from 5 years upwards are is having a go. The enthusiasm and spirit for this event is so cool.
Another live band is playing on side. More food. More smiling people.
More emotions.
Then on to the next. More and more of everything. More bands playing. D.Js setting an eclectic soundtrack. More food. More people. This thing just keeps growing as the day goes on.
And then its sensible to sit down for a while or face the consequences. Dehydration. Or simply knackered beyond recovery. Both are possible.
Spritzer. Ice cold. At Le Monde Caffetteria. For the first time in a couple of hours a tiny bit of relaxation. Costa is talking with old friends. I can now stare blankly into space and try and get my breath back. It really is full on when things get going. The sounds and smells, and especially the sights are relentless as you walk round. Everywhere is interesting in some way.
After refreshments we head back for a fly-by of a couple the small piazzas to get more photos, eventually, reaching Piazza Santa Apollinare. It is packed. You cannot move in a straight line in any direction. Standing on a bench, I manage to get above the crowd and look out across a sea of heads. Each one having its say. Few noticed as I took their photos, and those that did gave us a wave and a smile. It was a pleasure being there. Those looking for a time out are standing in groups lining the walls that head out of the Piazza. Characters everywhere. Most of them lost in conversation, thought, or Insto. Again, more photos than I can take.
Lunch came and went without any lunch. We did manage a beer and a Fanta at Bidda Bar in Piazza d’Italia. Ice cold, as they should be, and helped along with some banging tunes from Gianluca Venerdini. He spent time in London D.J-ing at the Ministry Of Sound, so no problems there. Not a bad thing to have on your C.V. Had a chat with Davide the owner. Well kind of. My Italian is not the best. Costa helps out with the translations. Quite a bit.
Drinks finished, and we are now off to visit parents and pick up a sister quickly. Then back for the main event.
We head for Piazza Castello. The Candles are there, bobbing and swaying as the bearers do a little more practice. These guys have been at this all day. The work they put into this, and the stamina they have is unbelievable. Only another 3 or 4 kilometres to go guys. I’ve been holding this camera all day and its starting to feel heavy. God only knows how they are feeling. The descent starts and we try and and position ourselves between the crowd and the bearers. That didn’t last long for me. I soon got swallowed up by the crowd in about 3 minutes. Who, to be fair, were really nice about it all. The scene as we came down Corso Vittorio Emanuele II was incredible. Seeing the candles dancing above the crowd with their ribbons and flags following the movements of the bearers below, out of sight amongst the crowd. The happiness in the crowd, and in the atmosphere was there all the time.
The start started, and a few photos taken, we had to get cracking and get down to the Palazzo Civico, where the candles will stop, perform, and receive a toast from the Mayor, Giuseppe Mascia. Along with a host of other dignitaries. Outside the Palazzo Civico the scenes are pretty chaotic. To say the least. People need to be cleared from the road as best as possible so people can get in the door. The band needs space to play. Every photographer in Sardinia is there. T.V crew. Videographers and drone operators. Its crazy. The police are working overtime, as are the organisers in their high vis. One after another the VIPs arrive. I’ve got to be honest here, I had no idea who anyone was. I was just gauging their importance by the fuss created. Big fuss, big name. Right? Then the Mayor arrives and again the place goes crazy. I’m not a big guy so most of the time here I’m on tip toes holding the camera above my head snapping blindly. A spray and prey kind of thing. Needs work.
The band is playing loud now and the crowd is in full voice. More people turn up. More interviews are taking place. The police are visibly more vigilant. Happy chaos on the street, as Costa disappears inside Palazzo Civico to take formal shots of dignitaries and VIPs.
That done and out of the way, we are given kind permission to use a balcony directly across from Palazzo Civico. What a treat! A new perspective on the whole event. Literally. There’s so much more scale from the balcony. The scenes of celebration from that vantage point were spectacular at times. The river of people running down Corso Vittorio Emanuele II along with the candles dancing high above the crowds was something to see. And photograph. A big thank you, by the way, to Giovanni Porcu for his time. Incredible photographer.
And on it all went. Each candle, carried by its bearers, arrives outside the town hall and performs for the dignitaries who watched from their balcony. Before it’s carried on its way towards the Church of Santa Maria di Betlem, where its journey ends. And those bearers might get five minutes rest.
Then into the night.
Which is where, unfortunately, we had to finish. To be honest at this point I was exhausted. Physically and emotionally. The day was incredible. Experiencing the March of the Candles the way I did, with a guy who was born and raised in Sassari and knows it like the back of his hand was a real privilege. Cheers big fella. Also, to see a city, along with an extra hundred thousand or so guests, so happy and united and proud of its heritage was a gift.
A big thanks to all the friends of Costa who held their arms out and welcomed me to their Sassari.
Big shout also to Giovannino Gambe Corte!
And finally, a big thanks to Marcia for letting me stay overnight and cooking for us. The tagliatelle and those meatballs were unbelievable!
Oh, and thank you Sassari. What a beautiful experience.
Maybe next year we’ll do the evening.
Richard Hutchinson
Photographer
